The Survival Guide to Kabul©

Published internationally in July 2003 as Kabul: The Bradt Mini Guide.

First published in Kabul in September 2002 as a pamphlet.

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Photo story: Panjshir and Massoud’s tomb A trip to the Panjshir Valley The Panjshir Valley lies around 100 kilometres northeast of the capital, Kabul, but the drive to get there takes more than five hours. The first 50 kilometres are tarmac road, but suddenly the road ends and after that it's just rocks and dust, making the ride rather uncomfortable. Head out of Kabul on the Charikar road (also a good place to stop and eat at the famous Panjshir Restaurant on the main town square). Dozens of destroyed tanks still line the road, burnt out testimonies to the violent fighting that raged in the region as the Soviets battled to subdue the Panjshir and repeatedly failed. Massoud's tomb is a plain white building with a gleaming green dome towards the valley entrance. The pilgrimage site, as it has now become, is perched on a hill with a commanding and beautiful view of the river far below. The Panjshir River is one of the few fast flowing rivers in the country after five years of drought and the valley floor is a scene of biblical lushness, especially around harvest time in September (also the time of the anniversary of Massoud’s death). Plans are afoot to expand the tomb and make it into a national monument. When visiting be careful not to offend others. Women should wear scarves, both men and women should remove shoes if they wish to enter the small tomb itself.

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