The Survival Guide to Kabul©

Published internationally in July 2003 as Kabul: The Bradt Mini Guide.

First published in Kabul in September 2002 as a pamphlet.



What’s new

Bulletin Board



News & info

Kabul life







What to see

What to do

General tips

Useful contacts











Changing Kabul

Photo stories


The Guide




Print guide 2002


Contact us

The authors


What’s new - Archive

July – November 2003


November 29 2003

Profile: The Bookseller of Kabul.

Pictures: Bomb damage at the Intercontinental Hotel.

November 28 2003

The Guardian: Pilgrims flock to pay tribute to the Afghan Elvis.

November 25 2003

Photo Story: Eid in Kabul.

November 24 2003

BBC: Many Afghans see bright future.

New airline flying Dubai-Kabul from December: Marco Polo Airways.

November 22 2003

VOA: Bomb Blast Causes Minor Damage.

AP: Rocket explodes outside major Kabul hotel.

The Guardian: List of attacks in Kabul.

Photo Story: Intercontinental Hotel

Photo: Rugby World Cup celebrations in Kabul.

And used by BBC Online !!

Crown Agents: Information on bank transfers to Kabul.

November 21 2003

Pictures: The Survival Guide to Kabul hosted a military tour of Kabul.

Calendar Launch: Photo journalist Alyssa Banta launches a 2004 Afghanistan calendar at the Mustafa Hotel.

Photo Story: Kabul bazaar, Friday before Eid.


November 20 2003

In Memoriam: Bettina Goislard, UNHCR.


November 20 2003

BBC: Kabul radio tops the charts.

Shipping to Afghanistan?

GREENSHIELDS COWIE International Freight Forwarders.

UK: Tel:  +44 (0)20 8643 3533 Fax: +44 (0)20  8643 1770


Kabul: Clive Upton Email: Tel: 070 296 805.

November 18 2003

BBC: UN puts Afghan operations on hold.

Reuters: NATO on trial as Afghanistan spins out of control.

November 17 2003

UNHCR: UNHCR suspends activities after staff member killed in eastern Afghanistan.

AP: U.N. Suspending Some Afghan Operations.

Times of India: Kabul eats, drinks, sleeps Bollywood.

November 13 2003

RFE/RL: Afghanistan: Two Years Later, Taliban's Sudden Withdrawal From Kabul Still Affecting Transition.

The Guardian: Red Kabul revisited. Are the US rulers of Afghanistan at last adopting the agenda of their Soviet predecessors?

SPECIAL: 2001-2003 The Fall of Kabul

Links to stories from around November 13 2001 when Kabul fell and the Taliban fled the city.

November 12 2003

Menu: The Zadar Croatian Restaurant.

BBC: Regenerating Afghanistan’s Buddha region.

Globe and Mail: Brave man guards Kabul gold.

AFP: Property boom highlights Kabul’s wealth gap.

BBC: Photo Journal: Afghan women’s voices.

November 10 2003

Everest Pizza takeaway and delivery.

November 9 2003

Photos: Remembrance Sunday service at the British Cemetery.

November 6 2003

BBC: In Pictures: Kabul’s Moghul Garden.

New opening times for the German restaurant – open on Saturday and closed on Tuesdays.

Achtung neue Öffnungszeiten!!! Dienstag Schließtag!!! Samstag geöffnet! Mittwoch – Montag 12:00 - 23:00 Uhr 12:00 - 14:00 Mittagstisch 18:00 - 22:00 Abendkarte

Attention new opening times. Tuesday is off day!!! Saturday open!

Wednesday to Friday 12:00 – 11pm open

November 5 2003

AP: Afghan airlines to begin domestic Kabul-Kandahar flights.

Photos: Redesigned café at the Mustafa Hotel.

AP: Kabul beauty school offers training for Afghan women.

November 3 2003

Cellular News: Kabul to get increased cellphone capacity.

November 3 2003

Search for a Superstar at the German Restaurant

The Deutscher Hof is starting a competition with prizes of 100-300 Euros for all budding singers and musicians. The first show starts on November 13. The second show is on November 28. The third Show will be on December 11. The grand Final between the Winners of the three Shows will be on December 18. For info: Email or Telephone 070 28 8134.

German Restaurant information and new menu.

November 3 2003

The Guardian: Nightmare sequel to bestseller on Kabul family life.

November 2 2003

BBC: UN seeks to bolster Afghan leader.

UN: Security Council mission arrives in Afghanistan to back central Government.



October 30 2003

The Guardian special report: Our friends, the warlords.

October 30 2003

Washington Post: Pageant Flap Bares Depth of Tradition for Afghans.

October 29 2003

BBC: Opium ‘threatens’ Afghan future.

UN: UN survey finds opium production on the rise in Afghanistan.

UN pdf file: Full UN report.

October 29 2003

New York Times: Bookseller of Kabul v Journalist of Oslo.

October 19 2003

The Observer: Afghans uncover last treasure.

Rugby World Cup at the Mustafa Hotel

The bar at the Mustafa Hotel is now fully equipped with Star Sports satellite TV for you to watch the rugby world cup live from Australia.

BBC: World cup results and fixtures

Website - The aim of this charity is to target specific projects which will improve the health and education of the people of Afghanistan.

October 14 2003

Restaurant update There’s a new Croatian Cuisine place, the Zadar Restaurant, on the left hand side of the main road to Taimani just before IOM. The German restaurant starts a new and cheaper menu this week with a buffet on Thursday nights. The Gandamak Lodge, now linked to the Frontline Club in London (, has taken over the property across the street and has 8 ensuite rooms and a new restaurant is being built. The Global Guesthouse has a nice small bar with large TV screenings of the Rugby World Cup. The Kelt’s Irish Bar at the Mustafa Hotel is no longer Irish but is still open and serving draught beers; the pizzas are still good here.

Check the new menu for the German Restaurant.


News, books and information on Afghanistan:


Check out Ahmed Rashid’s website:

Ahmed writes: I now have my own web site created skillfully for me by a Karachi company ‘ Creative Chaos.’ On it you will see videos, interviews and all my recent articles on Pakistan, Afghanistan and Central Asia which will be updated constantly. You will also see the latest news about the Open Media Fund for Afghanistan which is now funding 14 newspapers and magazines being published in Afghanistan in Dari, Pushtu and Uzbek. The websites has been designed specifically with students in mind who may want to do research work. I would be grateful if you could please pass this onto students or anyone else who may be interested.

October 3 2003

Coverage on the Kabul guide in the Croatian media.

September 19 2003

The mini guide features in The Financial Times

To make it easier, two enterprising journalists recently completed Kabul's first tourist guidebook in 20 years. Kabul: The Bradt Mini Guide evolved from a 16-page leaflet aptly named The Survival Guide to Kabul.

First time, solo visitors to Kabul should pick up 'Kabul: The Bradt Mini Guide,' by Dominic Medley and Jude Barrand. It is packed with tips on culture, where to hire a car or a translator and suggestions of places to stay and eat (

Full article…


August/September 2003

Wanderlust Travel Magazine
BEST BUYS In the first of its new series of mini guides, Bradt has set an impressive precedent. Evolved from a 16 page leaflet handed out by streetkids to aid workers and expats after the war, the comprehensive Bradt Mini Guide to Kabul is a fascinating insight into Afghanistan's capital, whether you intend to go there or not. Historical information on the city, its citizens and the ruthless Taliban is mixed with practical advice on safety, security and health issues for travellers, and moving personal accounts from Afghans and aid workers. Since the TV news coverage has stopped it's hard to imagine how life in Kabul has changed, but reading snippets about the growing popularity of juice bars and the colourful stalls on Chicken Street allows you to get a glimpse of how life might have changed for the Afghan people. A must read.

September 22 2003


Review of Kabul: The Bradt Mini Guide

TRAVEL Coming To Kabul The Taliban may still be hiding out in the hills, but already the backpacking set is jetting into Afghanistan. So it’s no wonder the guidebook industry is getting in on the deal. The idea for “Kabul: The Bradt Mini Guide” was dreamed up by journalist Dominic Medley and NGO employee Jude Barrand in the hope of creating a survival handbook for new arrivals. The duo at first simply put together photocopied pamphlets of embassy contacts, U.N. office addresses and top guesthouses, distributing them free to the city’s street children, who could then sell them and make a quick buck. They sold fast, and soon Bradt Travel Guides swooped in with an offer to publish the books, providing Kabul’s kids continue to sell them to the expatriate community and new-arrival tourists. So, what are the new travel guides like? NEWSWEEK sneaked a peek and they’re not half bad. The guide gives practical tips on security (“Be extra careful walking or driving around at night”), steers readers to the hot hotels (the Mustafa and Intercontinental) and even reveals where to buy NEWSWEEK (the Habibi Book Centre “halfway down Chicken Street”). The index reveals almost everything a foreigner might want to know about Kabul and its environs. Except, of course, where Osama bin Laden is hiding out. That’d be too easy, right?  —Michelle Jana

Cities on the way to Kabul

We’re going to develop advice and information on cities such as Dubai, Islamabad and Kabul as well as for the other major cities in Afghanistan. Send us any suggestions:

Al Futtaim Travel Agency in Dubai


August 2003

In August 2003 guide co-author Dominic Medley revisited Sarajevo where he used to work. The Sarajevo Media Centre promoted the guide (see press release) and Dominic was interviewed by two Bosnian magazines BH Dani (full scanned article) and Start (full scanned article).

Dominic also featured in the Warwick Graduates Magazine.


Article in Conde Nast on Kabul (May 2003).

August 15 2003

German airline to resume Afghan flights.

More on the LTU service.

August 11 2003

NATO to assume command of ISAF.

Website: ISAF

Website: NATO

Website: NATO in Afghanistan

August 5 2003

International Crisis Group report: The Problem of Pashtun Alienation.

BBC Article.

August 8 2003

Dusseldorf Kabul flights launched.


July 21 2003

Article by guide co-author published in the Baghdad Bulletin.

July 31 2003

New Irish Bar opens in Kabul. More…


A trial run for our very own bulletin board. Leave your messages, advertisements, comments and thoughts online now. More…

Website for the Mustafa Hotel:

July 31 2003

Nomad carpets, rugs and furniture shop set up by Rahim of the Anaar restaurant.



كابل، افغانستان

The Survival Guide to Kabul©